Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iceland. Show all posts

23.6.10

Les Mondes Cachées

A l'occasion de l'exposition "L'Islande Autrement... arts et tradition" du 2 au 30 juillet à Strasbourg, j'ai traduit le texte qui accompagne une partie des toiles que je présente. Ecrit en anglais, le voilà donc dans ma langue maternelle. 











Le cœur de la montagne, dans le reflet du miroir

Les légendes islandaises regorgent de créatures mythiques – jarðvergar (gnomes), álfar (elfes), ljósálfar and dopkalfar (elfes lumineux et elfes sombres), dvergar (nains), ljúflingar (mignons), tìvar (esprits de la montagnes), englar (anges) et huldufólk (peuple caché).

Il faut avouer que le climat et le paysage, rude et sauvage, de l’Islande se prêtent volontiers à ce genre de superstition. Le décor, aussi sublime qu’envoûtant, avec ses champs de lave pourpre habillés de mousse verdoyante, les fumerolles des zones géothermiques, le brouillard fréquent, le silence des hauts plateaux ….. laisse facilement l’imagination vagabonder dans ce paysage idyllique. J’ai été fascinée par la légende du peuple caché et j’y ai puisé la source de mon inspiration pour une série de toiles.
Selon la tradition, le peuple caché a la même apparence physique que les êtres humains. Bien que ces habitants invisibles vivent dans des collines, rochers ou falaises leurs maisons ressemblent beaucoup aux demeures modernes des hommes. À la campagne, le peuple caché élève des vaches, moutons et autres animaux domestiques et généralement ses occupations sont semblables à celles de l’homme.

Les origines du Peuple caché

« Un jour, Dieu Tout Puissant vint rendre visite à Adam et Eve. Ils lui firent bel accueil et lui montrèrent tout ce qu’ils possédaient dans leur maison, y compris leurs enfants, qu’Il trouva pleins d’avenir et d'espoir. Il demanda alors à Eve s’ils n'avaient pas d’autres enfants que ceux qu’elle lui avait montrés. Elle dit que non. Mais il se trouve qu’Eve n’avait pas eu le temps de tous les laver. Honteuse de les présenter à Dieu non débarbouillés, elle les avait cachés. Dieu le savait, et dit : « Ce qui doit m’être caché sera caché aux hommes. »

Sur le champ, les enfants non lavés furent rendus invisibles et trouvèrent refuge dans les monts et les hauteurs, les grottes et les pierres. De là viennent les elfes, tandis que les hommes sont de la lignée directe des enfants qu’Eve montra à Dieu. Ainsi, les elfes sont invisibles aux yeux des humains - sauf pour les yeux des humains clairvoyants, ou lorsque les elfes eux-mêmes souhaitent se montrer. Le peuple caché - c’est le nom donné aux elfes - n’est habituellement ni amical ni hostile envers les humains. Il récompense ceux qui sont bons pour lui, mais il est également très vindicatif si vous lui faites du mal ou le dérangez. Pour cette raison il peut être très dangereux de s’ingérer dans sa vie amoureuse.

Evolution de mon nouveau travail

1. Le monde invisible






Au Coeur de la Montagne, Acrylique sur toile, 200x40cm, Avril 2009

Travaillant sur le thème d’un peuple caché et d'un monde invisible, je me suis attelée à une série de peintures dans lesquelles les montagnes ne sont pas dépeintes simplement en tant que reliefs élevés composés de roches et de terre mais comme terre d’accueil des mondes cachés. La peinture Au cœur de la Montagne, par exemple, s’ouvre sur un monde au sein de la montagne, dans lequel le spectateur est attiré. La toile est née de coulées successives de peinture dont la superposition crée la profondeur.











Au cœur de la Montagne, exemple de coulées de peinture







Par delà la Montagne Bleue, Acrylique sur toile, 180x48cm, Avril 2009









Par delà la Montagne Bleue, détail

J’ai adopté une approche similaire pour la toile Par-delà la Montagne Bleue. Dans le détail de peinture ci-dessus, vous pouvez voir que la montagne abrite d’étranges oiseaux, inspirés par l’observation des cormorans dans les fjords de l’ouest. C’est aussi un clin d’œil à Blafjöl (ou Blafjall), les Montagnes Bleues (non loin de Reykjavík), où dorment toute l'année les treize Jólasveinar. Une légende raconte que 13 jours avant Noël, 13 Pères Noël (il s'agit plutôt de lutins farceurs descendants de trolls) quittent leurs montagnes un par un du 12 au 24 décembre et viennent visiter les gens pour leur jouer des tours.

Derrière la Colline de Mousse - troisième peinture qui complète la série – joue sur le même thème d'un monde caché au cœur de la montagne. Les couleurs vives traduisent l’imaginaire, tandis que des couleurs plus terrestres comme le noir et le vert rappellent les champs de lave et de mousse, deux éléments inséparables dans les paysages islandais. Les croyances et les histoires sur les créatures cachées sont encore très vivaces en Islande : les locaux connaissent les rochers susceptibles d’être habités par des elfes et nombre de formations rocheuses ou de lave ont des légendes qui leur sont attachées.







Derrière la Colline de Mousse, Acrylique sur toile, 200x50cm, Mai 2009










Derrière la Colline de Mousse, détail

2. Paysages islandais

Dans des peintures de paysage plus traditionnelles, telles Sur le chemin de Borgarvirki et Vaðlaheið, la même idée d'un monde caché prédomine, mais d'une manière moins évidente. Dans le tableau Sur le chemin de Borgarvirki le reflet imparfait, dans l’eau, des montagnes couvertes de glace, invite le spectateur à les considérer comme deux mondes, similaires et différents à la fois.












Sur le Chemin de Borgarvirki, Acrylique sur toile, 200x100cm, Avril 2009

La profondeur de la montagne Vaðlaheið et son reflet infini dans l’eau traduit toujours cette idée d'un monde réel, mais qui, néanmoins, pourrait accueillir une vie cachée. Au printemps, la fonte des neiges et des glaces sur les massifs réhausse le caractère vivant de la montagne. Les coulées de neige sculptent la montagne et ressemblent à des veines dont le sang à la blancheur immaculée apporte la vie. Les perpétuels changements de couleurs dans le ciel donnent aux lacs et à l’océan des tons scintillants, et une profondeur qui invite le spectateur à s'interroger sur les vies cachées qu’ils abritent.











Vaðlaheið, Acrylique sur toile, 200x100cm, Mars 2009

22.6.10

Arts et traditions... l'Islande autrement

Carton d'invitation, vernissage 2 juillet à 15h30, place Kléber Strasbourg. Exposition du 2 au 30 juillet, ouvert tlj 10-19h00.



27.7.09

Jökursarlon


July 24th

This is the last post of my Icelandic trip. I am now back in the UK trying to adjust to the buzzing life around me. This picture sums up the natural beauty of Iceland. I took the picture at Jökursarlon beginning of July. No photoshop effect, just natural light early in the morning.

18.7.09

Landmannalaugar- Skogar Trek


July 2-6th 2009

On July 2nd, Chrystèle and myself embark on what is my first trek with the goal to join the coastal town of Skogar from Landmannalaugar. The total hiking distance is close to 70km: about 53km from Landmannalaugur to Þorsmork on the route called Laugavegurinn (the Hot Spring Route) which we continue to Skogar on the south coast by adding an extra 25km. We opt to do the trek in total autonomy packing enough food and a tent for four days. The trek is well-know in Iceland and popular with foreign and Icelandic hikers as it offers a great variety of landscapes from hot springs, rhyolite mountains, glaciers, rivers, lakes, etc. The variety of weather is also part of the experience. The weather may be really bad at times, but incredibly beautiful at others. I had to wear my best ski gear while walking the Laugavegur, but I also walked in just my t-shirt.


July 2th: Landmannalaugar- Álftavatn

We depart from Reykjavik at 8.30 and after a brief stop at Selfoss we reach Landmannalaugar around 1pm. The weather does not seem promising as we drive along the coast: the rain has combined with the fog to form a blurry mass through which the bus steadily goes. As the weather clears up, we can distinguish the Hekla volcano, nicknamed the Hooded One as its summit is most of the time shrouded in cloud. By the time we reach Landmannalaugar, the fog has disappeared giving way to a grey and drizzling sky.


We set up for Hrafntinnusker, our first halt and the first refuge we can reach, where we intend to camp. A steadily trail up goes through a lava field and mountains in almost every colour of the rainbow. Steaming vents and boiling water are all around. After about 3 hours we arrive at Stórihver, a hot spring where we also start seeing more and more snow and fog around us.

We were expecting some snow but not that much. When we reach the first hut we realize we can clearly not camp as a thick layer of snow covers the whole area. After changing for warmer gear, we decide to go further up to Álftavatn. The trail takes us through a valley and we leave the colourful rhyolite mountains and enter an area with dark palagonite mountains and glaciers.


Vegetation increases all around us as we leave the snow behind and see from a distance the Álftavatn lake. The landscape now strangely resembles the Bolivian wilderness. Mountains after mountains create a feeling of vast openness. After a hiking day with an elevation increase of about 960m, we finally reach about 9pm the shores of the Álftavatn lake when wet and frozen we can rest.


July 3rd : Álftavatn - Emstrur

After a first wet and foggy day we wake up by the lake under a beautiful sky. We leave behind green mountains and snow for black sanded plains. The change is quite dramatic as we walk through a desert-like area with superb views on the Myrdalsjökull glacier. The mix of black and white from the sand and the distant snow and ice of the Myrdalsjökull glacier is overwhelming in its beauty. Reaching the camp site at Emstrur, we set up our tent and take a side trip to Markarfljótsgljúfur - a gaping green canyon.


July 4th: Emstrur - Þórsmörk
The weather has changed again and alternates between rainy and sunny patches before eventually settling on the bright side. The leg of the trip takes us through various rivers among which "Þröngá". The current is very strong and the water, straight from the glacier.... glacial! Its coldness is almost painful. When we reach Þórsmörk, the vegetation has changed again. After barren mountains, we walk among birch trees and the vegetation is strangely similar to the middle of France. We decide to camp in Þórsmörk after meeting by pure chance in the middle of the Þórsmörk campsite Siggi whom I befriended in Skagaströnd.

It is Saturday night and at 10pm all campers gather around a bonfire: all generations sit together to sing along until the rain dispersed us. Magical!





July 5th - Þórsmörk- Skogar
On our fourth day we begin the last portion of the trek. The landscape changes rapidly as we steadily go up. This time it feels more like we landed in the middle of Central America. The beauty of the surroundings makes me forget how exhausting the 3.5 hour climb is. We meet the snow again and strong wind. However, we are lucky to not get much fog quite common here. A tomb dedicated to a few hikers who lost they way on the pass few decades ago reminds us of how inclement the weather can turn.


We finally reach Fimmvörðuhals Pass (1093m) where we stop for lunch before putting up warmer clothes to begin the climb down. After passing through a fairly plain and arid landscape, we reach the Skógaá river. We follow down the stream to the waterfall Skogafoss. We wonder at waterfalls after waterfalls until we reach our final destination: the 62m high waterfall Skogafoss. Goal accomplished!


15.7.09

From Myvatn to Reykjavik on the N1

The N1 is the main road that circles Iceland. It can be easily driven by visitors in normal cars without hiring a four wheel drive to go on mountainous roads in the interior of the country.

Starting in Skagaströnd, the photos below have been taken on a trip that ended in Reykjavik.



Among many highlights, we discovered:

- The lake Myvatn and the nearby Krafla area, full of fumaroles and bubbling mud pots,
- Husavik, a picturesque town which hosts a phallus museum (including whale specimens taller than me) and a superb whale museum. A whale watching tour brought us closer to these sea mammals and we saw three humpbacks and two minke whales.
- Asbyrgi: it is a massive horseshoe shape canyon which host a luxurious vegetation. Its scale is really impressive and majestic. A nice legend is attached to it: early Norse settlers believed that Oðinn's airborne horse calles Sleipnir accidentally touched down the earth and left a footprint to show it.
- A succession of superb waterfalls at Hafragilsfoss, Dettifoss and Selfoss.
- Jökursarlon: Spectacular, luminous-blue Icebergs drift through the lagoon into the sea. The fallen ice forms eerie ice sculptures where you can spot seals swimming around.
- Skaftafell: the national park offers majestic views on glaciers.
- Springy moss on the way to Vik and Dyrholaey, a magical place to be at at sunset which offers views over an arch in the rocks and hosts lots of puffins.
- Slogar and its nearby waterfalls
- the Vestmann Islands (Vestmannaeyjar). The islands were formed by submarine volcanoes about 11,000 years ago. The main island is Heimaey which almost got destroyed in 1973 when a giant fissure turning into the Eldfell volcano prompted the island evacuation. Inhabitants cleared the ash and rumbles once the volcano calmed down and constructed the city again.

Walks around the island bought us to fish drying structures which are used to dried fish heads. Lines of fish heads like beads on a thread drying in the sun conveyed a feeling of the end of the world. They are actually dried and exported to Nigeria as they represent an important source of protein.

11.7.09

Spákonufell Good Bye

June 25th -
Last climb of the Spákonufell Mountain reaching the top at 1am with extraordinary light!

22.6.09

The land of the Midnight Sun

June 21st.

A number of people in Iceland celebrate the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, by walking and hiking. We set to climb the Spákonufell Mountain at 10 in the night reaching the top just in time for the midnight sun. It is quite an eerie feeling to reach a summit at midnight in full daylight.













Striking midnight.













View of the West Fjords across the bay













View over the Skagi peninsula.




20.6.09

Icelandic Rock/Pop Music

Skagaströnd... Even lost in the North of Iceland you can find the most unexpected connections. I am indeed living next door to the house where the grand-mother of Jón Þór Birgisson, singer and guitarist of Sigur Rós used to live. Her name was Sigurrósa and was a well-known eccentric figure in the village. Jónsi Birgisson’s little sister Sigurrósa was named after her, and translated it means “victory rose.”

Apart from this anecdote, I discovered a few really good Icelandic bands.

Rökkurró
The debut album Það kólnar í kvöld... is brilliant. Try the song Ferðalangurinn for a start.

Múm
Experimental band

Ólöf Arnalds
Ólöf Arnalds is folk singer/ songwriter who used to be a member of Múm. She plays the guitar and the charango (a sort of small lute). She released her debut album in 2007 called Við Og Við. She sounds like a modern troubadour with a crystal clear voice.

Benni Hemm Hemm
http://www.myspace.com/bennihemmhemm

Mínus
http://www.myspace.com/minus
Icelandic alternative rock/hardcore band from Reykjavík

Kira Kira
http://www.myspace.com/trallaladykirakira

Magnús Þór Jónsson known as Megas

Sigur Ross
http://www.heima.co.uk/

Björk

17.6.09

Skagaströnd - May and June

From May on you can feel that summer is getting closer even in the North of Iceland. Days become longer and longer and twilight happens around 11 or 12pm! I look forward to the longest day of the year on June 21st. This extra amount of daylight fills you up with extra energy that keeps you going.

Lots of birds start nesting in Skagaströnd in May. You can see flocks of Eider ducks, oyster catchers and artic sterns and tons of others. Already in June enlarged duck families can be observed swimming around. The colours change dramatically too: fields are covered in white, yellow, purple... Thousands of flowers grow out of the earth from one day to the other giving a new touch to the landscape.




Guarding Skagaströng, the Spákonufell Mountain goes through a complete redressing too. After white snowy garments, yellow was the dominant colour during the snow melting. It now stands in June cloaked in Lupine purple and moss green and every day you can see greener patches covering up the mountain always higher.

15.6.09

Icelandic language - Useful lexique

Icelandic is a language that did not evolve very much since the Middle Ages. It is still very similar to the Old Norse spoken by the Vikings originally which became the Norwegian language and modern Danish on the continent. Its pronunciation and spelling have changed over the centuries but not its grammatical structure and Icelanders today can easily read sagas from the 13th and 14th centuries.

The language is highly inflected and the grammar and the pronunciation quite complicated for foreigners. Written Icelandic has four letters not found in the English alphabet. The consonants Ð, ð (pronounced like English th in that), Æ, æ (pronounced like English i in life), Þ, þ (pronounced like English th in that) and Ö, ö (pronounced like English o in work or French eu like in fleur). Other vowels are lengthened or diphthongized by the addition of an acute accent over them.

However, it is quite easy and useful to learn a few words to read a map. Very often the meaning of places is descriptive such as Reykjavik (smoky bay), Husavik (bay of houses), Hveragerdi (warm gardens), Eldgja (fire fault), Eldfell (Fire mountain), Jokulsá (glacial river).

The list below should help to decipher places' names when travelling.

alda = hilly ridge (plural: öldur)
á = river (like (Laxá, Hvitá, Jokulsá, Krossá, Thjorsá ...)
ás = small ridge, hill
bær = farm, township (Glaumbaer, Kirkjubaejarklaustur ...)
bakki =river bank
bjarg = cliff, rock
borg = city, crag
botn = bottom, head of the valley or fjord
brekka = slope
brú = brige
bunga = rounded peak
dalur = valley (Thjorsardalur, Húsadalur, Vatnsdalur ...)
djúp = long inlet; deep
drag = watercourse (plural: drög)
drangur = isolated column of rock
dyngja = dome
eiði = isthmus
ey = island (plural: eyjar)
eyri = sandspit, delta
fell = mountain; hill
fjall = mountain (plural: fjöll)
fjörður = fjord, broad inlet, valley (plural: firðir) - (Skagafjordur, Breidafjordur ...)
fljót = large river (Markarfljót, Skjalfandafljót ...)
foss = waterfall (Gullfoss, Dettifoss, Hengifoss, Godafoss, Skogafoss ...)
gata = avenue
gígur = crater
gil = gorge, ravine
gjá = chasm, fissure (Eldgjá, Almannagjá, Grjótagjá ...)
grunn = shoal, shallow
háls = ridge, isthmus
hamar = crag
heiði = heath, moor
hlíð = mountain side
hnjúkur/ hnúkur = peak
höfði = promontory
höfn = harbour
hóll = rounded hill (plural hólar)
hólmur = islet
holt = stony hill
hraun = lava field/lava (Namshraun, Laugahraun, Odadahraun ...)
hryggur = ridge
hver = hot spring (Hverfjall, Hverarond, Hveragerdi ...)
hvoll = hill
jökull = glacier (Vatnajokull, Breidamerkurjökull, Langjökull ...)
jökulsá = glacial river
kirkja = church (Hallgrimskirkja, Kirkjubaejarklaustur, Kirkjugolf ...)
klettur = rock, cliff
kot = small farm
kvísl =river; branch of river
lækur = brook
laug = warm spring (Laugarvegur, Landmannalaugar ...)
lón =lagoon (Jokulsarlon, Breidarlon, Fjallsarlon ...)
melur = gravel; barren plain
múli = headland, spur
mynni = mouth
myri = swamp
nes = headland, ness
núpur = spur, peak
oddi = point, tongue of land
öræfi = desert
ós = estuary
reykur = smoke, steam
rif = reef
sandur = sand(s) (Sprengisandur, Skeidararsandur ...)
skagi = peninsula
skali = refuge (Sigurdarskali ...)
skarð = mountain pass
sker = skerry
skógur = wood, shrubland
slétta = plain
staður = place; parsonage (plural staðir)
stapi = bluff, crag
stadur or stadir = inhabited places (Nupsstadur, Egilsstadir, Skutustadir ...)
súlur = (mountain) peaks
straeti = street
tangi = narrow peninsula
tindur = summit
tjörn = small lake; pond
tunga = tongue (of land)
vað = ford (plural vöð)
varða = cairn (plural vörður)
vatn = lake; water (plural vötn) - like Thingvallavatn, Myvatn, Veidivötn, Grimsvötn ...
vegur = road; track (Laugarvegur ...)
ver = grassy spot
vik = inlet, small bay (Reykjavik, Husavik, Grindavik ...)
vogur = inlet; creek
völlur = plain, field (plural vellir) - (Hvolsvöllur...)

Sources:
The Visitor's key to Iceland, Steindor Steindorsson

13.6.09

West Fjords - Snæfellsnes peninsula

Below are a few pictures of a trip taken in the West Fjords and Snæfellsness.

The West Fjords reverberate with a spectacular beauty. Heavy soaring mountains alternate with unfathomably deep and silent fjords. Very bumpy roads only dotted here and there by tiny fishing villages plunges the visitor in a special atmosphere devoid of the human presence until you get to Isafjordur.

I highlighted below two legends recounted at the Witchcraft and Sorcery museum at Holmavik. The stories, which aim at becoming richer or stealing your neighbour's milk are so far-fetched that it denotes how difficult times must have been in Iceland a few decades ago and what a fertile imagination people had (see below).




A place with a surreal atmosphere I particularly enjoyed was Reykjanes. The hotel Reykjanes used to be a district school founded in 1934. You can still wander around the hotel and see some rooms equipped with teaching equipment. The kitchen is in a classroom with tables, chairs and a blackboard. The birdlife was incredible and with hot water running into the surrounding lake in an utter silence I felt like being at the end of the world.

Guarding Grundarfjörður is the superb mountain called Kirkjufell (463m) which means Church Mountain. It derives its name from its special shape that resembles that of a Church. Danish sailors who often came to the area in earlier times called it"the Sugar Top".

Snæfellsjökull (1446m) is an ancient cone vulcano. In Jules Verne's novel, A Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the entrance to the underground way was through the crater of Snæfellsjökull. There have been many eruptions under and around the glacier, though none since settlement time. Around the turn of last century the glacier was twice the size it is today, then it grew rapidly smaller until about 1960 since when it has remained stable.

Two unordinary tales recounted at the Witchcraft and Sorcery museum at Holmavik


The Tilberi is a strange creature from Icelandic folklore.

If a woman wants to create a tilberi she has to dig up a human rib in a graveyard early on Whitsunday, wrap it in grey wool and preserve it between her breasts. The next three Sundays at communion she has to spit the holy wine on the bundle which will then come alive. Then the woman has to carve a nipple inside her thigh on which the tilberi will hang on and nourish itself. When it is fully grown the woman can send it into the neighbouring pastures to steal milk from cows and sheep.

When the woman becomes old the tilberi becomes a burden and the only way she can get rid of it, is to order it to gather all the sheep-dropping in three high-land pastures. Eager to get back on the nipple the tilberi will overexert itself and explode, leaving only a human rib beside the heap of droppings.

The milk-stealing tilberi is the only magic in Icelandic folklore that can only be performed by women. A fully grown tilberi could lie across a sheep´s back and suck two tits at the same time and when it would roll back to its farm it would spew the milk into its mother churn. The butter made from the milk would fall into little pieces if the magical sign smjörhnútur (butterknot) was drawn on it.


Nábuxur (also known as nábrók, finnabrækur or corpsepants ) or how to make sure to never run out of money as recounted by the Grapevine magazine (April 2009).

To make your pair of corpsepants, you must make an arrangement with a friend or acquaintance that entitles you to make use of his flesh after he’s dead. Make sure that your friend is of the male variety, as the corpsepants’ magical powers reside in the nutsack, which is exclusive to dudes. After your friend passes away, you must venture at night to the graveyard (or wherever he’s buried), exhume the corpse and flay it from the waist down, being extra-careful not to puncture the skin anywhere. There must be no holes, save for the ones you put your legs through. This should leave you with some leg-skin, which you must hoist over your own bare legs as soon as possible.

Once you put them on, the fleshy pants will immediately graft onto your skin. To activate corpsepants power, you must then steal a coin from a poor widow during Christmas, Easter or Pentecost (and you must steal it between the time your minister reads his sermon and the Gospel). Place that coin firmly in the aforementioned nutsack of your cool new pants and voila – you will never be short on spare change again!

11.6.09

Myvatn - Krafla

Below are a few pictures taken during a two-day trip in the Myvatn area.

Myvatn means Midge Lake and is among the largest lakes in Iceland. Many islands, islets, pseudocraters, plant and bird life are found in and around the lake. And of course midges in the summer, hence the name.

The surrounding area is superb with interesting lavafields, geothermal heat in caves and canyons and steep mountains in the background. Among interesting features are Hverfjall, a roundish crater of 1,300m diameter and said to be one of the largest such craters in the world and Dimmuborgir (means Dark crags). It is a magnificent lava landscape with strange formations, columns, caves and arches.

A bit further can be found the Krafla mountain. Considerable geothermal heat comes from the west side of Krafla with fumaroles and hot springs. Also beautiful is the explosion crater called Viti ("Hell"), 300m in diameter and with turquoise water at the bottom.


8.6.09

Drangey island

Few places I have visited in Iceland have impressed me as much as the island of Drangey. Drangey is situated in Skagafjörður in northern Iceland. This rugged island is the remnant of an old volcano. It rises 100-200 meters above sea level, and is a bird paradise. More than a million birds nest there every year - including puffins and black guillemots. Birds and eggs used to be taken from the island in the spring and many ladders in the most dizziest places around the island can still be seen.

Drangey rises almost perpendicular out of the sea and the sheer cliffs make it very hard to ascend it. There is only one place on the entire island where the visitor can climb and it is difficult, specially since a boulder during a recent storm destroyed the jetty and the main steps and ladder. 

 Below you will find the three main stories attached to the island and a few photographs taken during a trip in May.



The origin of Drangey

It all started with a pair of trolls living in Skagafjörður. As in many other Icelandic stories, they were night trolls, who turn to stone when exposed to sunlight, and therefore they only venture out at night. They had a huge cow which provided them with milk. The cow came into season, and since the nearest bull was on the other side of the fjord, they had a long way to take the cow. At sunset they started wading across the fjord, the old man pulling the stubborn cow behind him, and his wife pushing after it. The going was slower than they had expected, and at dawn they still had some way to go. When the sun's rays struck them, all three were turned to stone and became the island of Drangey, and two pillars of rock at either end of the island, after which it was named. Drangey derives from the 'drangur' which means rock pillar. The pillars were given the names Kerlingin (the old woman) and Karlinn (the old man). Karlinn collapsed into the sea in the 18th century, but Kerlingin is still standing.

"Even the evil need a place to live"

A legend goes that Drangey was once the abode of evil beings. Men who sought to pick eggs and hunt birds in the bountiful cliffs of the island, fell to their deaths, their climbing ropes mysteriously cut. Finally, people almost stopped going to the island to hunt birds. Then Guðmundur became bishop of Hólar, which was at that time the bishop's seat for the northern part of Iceland. Guðmundur, or Gvendur, as he was sometime called, was a good, kind man, and very holy, thus earning the nick-name "the good". The poor flocked to Hólar, because Guðmundur was know for feeding beggars. It sometimes became hard for him to find food for all those people, especially at the end of a long winter. So Guðmundur decided to send his men to Drangey to hunt birds and pick eggs. Several of the men were killed when they attempted to pick eggs in the cliffs. When the bishop heard this, he decided to do something about it. He went to the island with several priests and a barrel of holy water, and began blessing the island, descending down the cliffs by a rope, singing hymns and splashing holy water as he and his priests wended their way around the island. He had almost gone all the way around the island when a hand came out of the cliff face, holding a big, sharp knife, and began cutting the rope. The rope was three-ply, and the creature was able to cut through two of them, but the third held, because it had been soaked in holy water and blessed before the rope was made, and it could therefore not be destroyed by evil forces.

When the creature saw that it couldn't kill the bishop, it said "Stop your blessing, bishop Gvendur, even the evil need a place to live". Guðmundur stopped the blessing and asked to be pulled up. He then declared that this part of the cliffs should be a refuge for the evil creatures to live, and people should not try to descend that cliff. Ever since, there have been fewer accidents in the island, and bird hunters and egg gatherers have been left alone. The place Guðmundur left unblessed came to be called Heiðnaberg, or "Heathen Cliff", and it is said that nowhere on the island are there as many nesting birds, because no-one dares to try to pick eggs or hunt there.

Grettir the strong.

Grettir is the most famous outlaw of the Icelandic Sagas. As a young man he made a name for himself by his great strength, and got the nick-name "the strong". As the story goes, he fought and killed a powerful ghost named Glámur, who put a curse on him before it died, saying that everything he would do thereafter would turn out bad, that he would have no luck and that he would become a killer and an outlaw. The curse came true, and Grettir was outlawed, following a series of killings and mishaps. After sixteen years of roaming around Iceland and hiding in various places, he finally found refuge in Drangey, where he lived with his brother, Illugi, and a slave, Glaumur. They lived on the pickings of the island, including birds, fish and sheep that had been put there for the summer, occasionally going ashore for food. To get water, they had to climb down to a ledge where there was a hole that usually contained some water. It is called "the Well", and is the only place on the island where you can get water.
Grettir lived in the island for three years, and during that time there were numerous attempts made to climb the island. Finally, Grettir's enemies were able to ascend the island when Glaumur the slave, who was supposed to be guarding the rope ladder, fell asleep due to a magic curse. Grettir was ill, perhaps dying, and unable to defend himself, so it fell to his brother to fight the intruders. Finally, Grettir was killed, and his brother and slave were executed.

One of the most memorable things Grettir did, was when the slave let the fire in the island go out. They had no boat, and Grettir swam to shore to get fire from a farm up on the shore. He rested and bathed in Grettir's pool on the shore after his swim. The remains of the shelter Grettir and his companions used is still visible on the island. Since he lived in the 11th century, it is likely that others must have used it since then, thus keeping the ruins visible.

25.5.09

Spákonufell Mountain

Friday, May 23rd

Led by Halldór, Roshni and Sybille, two other NES artists and myself set off to climb Spákonufell, the curiously squared-top mountain rising just above Skagastrond. Thanks to the long days in May, we could start the hike at 6pm and came back around 10pm still with daylight.




Spákonufell means Soothsayers Mountain an is 646 m high. Its name is connected with the farm Spákonufell, which for centuries was located at the foothill of Spákonufell Mountain. The name’s origins can be traced back to the 10th century when Þórdís the soothsayer, said to be skilled in both magic and magical arts, lived on the farm Fell.

Vatnsdælasaga (Saga of Vatnsdælir) describes her as a great and intelligent woman. Later both the farm and the mountain Spákonufell were named after her. Þórdís was among other things known for fostering Iceland’s first missionary, Porvaldur Koránsson, later named Þorvaldur víförli (Þorvaldur the travelled). He was described as a healthy and brave champ who earned the respect of heathens, which enabled him to work on evangelisation in Iceland from 981 – 986;

Pórdís the soothsayer

For just over one thousand years ago, Pórdís the soothsayer took her daily walk up to Spákonufell Mountain, where she combed her hair with a special gold comb. Her farm, Fell, stood at the foothill where Skagaströnd’s cemetery is now situated. It is said that when Þórdís knew that she didn’t have long to live, she took a treasure chest up to Spákonufell and placed it on a ledge just in front of the mountain’s upmost rock, Spákonufellsborg (Spákonufells Rock). She announced that, a woman
who in her upbringing had not been baptised in the name of holy trinity or any other of God’s titles would get the chest and its treasure. Such a woman has not been found yet, so it’s very likely that the chest is still there.

Installation Work, Freezer Gallery, Skagastrond





























This piece is inspired by Icelandic geology, which is largely composed of volcanic material. This material has come from a number of local volcanoes, many of which are still active today. The cliché of 'Ice and Fire' is somewhat true to Iceland's visitor. 

Lava fields alternate with snowy patches, which are particularly striking at spring time when the snow starts melting. My intention with this sculpture was to convey a sense of the harshness of the lava fields combined with the softness of the snow. Paradoxically, snow can become the most ruthless element while the coarse nature of the lava fields is often softened by the moss growth that appears in the spring. 

I used nautical rope and local wool to create this piece. The rope evokes the harshness of the nets used for catching the fish and the hardship involved in working at sea while the wool that covers the rope brings some softness to it. This work embodies for me the male and female character with the conic shapes and crater on top, which are both intertwined and makes one with nature. I found the unison between man and nature particularly striking in Northern Iceland where weather conditions dictate the way humans survive while the food supplies provided by the land and sea are utilised to their utmost. Its umbilic (or tail-like shape!) confers upon it a life-like characteristic and humorous touch.